Porquerolles Island: rustic, simple, and très très cool
Porquerolles isn’t the kind of place you go to be seen—it’s where you go to slow down and quietly disappear for a while. Part of the Îles d'Hyères, the island is car-free and blissfully low-key. The beaches are soft and quiet, the sea crystal clear, and the air smells like eucalyptus, mimosa, and pine. You might spend the afternoon playing pétanque in the village square, sipping something cold at a red café table by the port, or just wandering the pine-lined paths with nowhere to be. It’s all about tuning out, breathing in, and letting the pace of the island carry you.
Fun fact: In 1912, explorer François-Joseph Fournier famously bought the entire island of Porquerolles as a wedding gift for his wife. He went on to plant 200 hectares (around 500 acres) of vineyards, which later produced one of the first wines to receive the Côtes de Provence designation, Domaine de l’Ile rosé (since purchased by Chanel in 2019).
Travel Tip
On this car-free island, life moves at a gentler rhythm—follow it one sandy trail at a time. Expect sun-soaked afternoons at Plage Notre-Dame and topless sunbathing at Les Gorges du Loup, secret coves only accessible by boat, and long, lazy lunches that stretch well into the day.
Where to stay
Book one of just six rooms at Le Porquerollais, a charming little hotel and the village’s best-loved restaurant, right on the main square. Enjoy your included breakfast with the morning papers on the sunny terrace under striped parasols, or inside, where the cozy decor evokes the feel of a classic wooden sailboat.
Le Mas du Langoustier is a timeless island escape open from April to September, nestled within 50 hectares of parkland at the island’s western tip. Owned by the Fournier–Le Ber family since 1912, it offers a rare sense of seclusion and connection to nature. Guests can unwind by the private pool, play a round of tennis, or dive into snorkeling and paddleboarding right from Langoustier beach. A private boat taxi drops you off directly at the shore, skipping the village altogether.
Where to eat and drink
Regardless of whether you are staying here or not, dinner at Le Porquerollais is non-negotiable. Enjoy lobsters, capons, red mullet, sea bream, dentex caught by the professional fishermen of Porquerolles Island and cooked to perfection.
The restaurant serves up refined dishes made with fresh, seasonal ingredients—many sourced from the estate’s own gardens—while the François Joseph bar crafts signature cocktails. It is open to outsiders for lunch, serves dishes such as grilled watermelon, plates of ripe tomatoes drenched in olive oil, lobster, and even a frozen pastis parfait.
A popular spot for seafood and classic Mediterranean dishes, right by the port.
The seasonal meeting place for lovers of Porquerolles, with probably the best views in town.
Full breakfast, salads, burgers, aioli, wok, real brasserie cuisine! Their specialty? Homemade pizza! Takeaway or eat in!
Where to swim
1 –Notre-Dame Beach
Named Europe’s most beautiful beach in 2015, Notre Dame is pure magic—turquoise waters, pine-shaded paths, and total calm (no boats allowed within 300m!). It’s about a 30-minute walk from the village, but get there early with a snorkel and you might spot mullets, soles, and sars gliding through the crystal-clear water. Bonus: it’s sheltered from both mistral and east winds.
2 – Black Lobster Beach
Just south of Plage du Langoustier lies a hidden gem with a twist—black (and sometimes red) sand, a relic of an old factory that once stood nearby. It’s one of the island’s quietest spots, mostly because it’s a bit of a trek: about 1.5 hours on foot or 50 minutes by bike from the village. But if you’re coming by boat, it’s a breeze to reach—and well worth it.
3 – Silver Beach
One of Porquerolles’ most beloved beaches, this dreamy spot is just 5 minutes by bike (or 15 on foot) from the pier. Think soft sand, clear turquoise water, and a shallow shore perfect for a long, lazy swim. It’s sheltered from the mistral and backed by a peaceful pine forest. There’s even a beachside restaurant and a lifeguard post—everything you need for an easy, sun-drenched afternoon.
3 – Langoustier Beach
Langoustier Beach is calm, clear, and wonderfully protected from the wind—perfect for a quiet swim with a view of the Giens Peninsula. With little swell, the water is extra transparent, and nearby, the historic Fort du Langoustier offers sweeping Mediterranean views. It’s about a 30-minute bike ride from the village, and there’s not much shade, so be sure to bring an umbrella. A bit more effort to reach, but totally worth it.
What to do
1 – Have a boat day
Take a day to explore the island’s hidden coves and the neighboring island of Port-Cros—where emerald waters invite you to swim alongside schools of fish. Pack a mask and snorkel and follow the underwater trail at Palud Beach for a closer look at the marine life.
2 – Visit Fondation Carmignac, have a glass of old vintage wine from Domaine La Courtade and get lost in the sculpture garden
Fondation Carmignac blends contemporary art with natural beauty, featuring a museum and sculpture garden nestled in beautiful surroundings.
3 – Biking & Hiking
Explore the island's network of trails that wind through forests and along the coastline
4 – Wine Tasting Experience
Take a bike ride across the inland paths to the Domaine de l’Ile, the original Fournier vineyard, now run by grandson Sébastien Le Ber, whose delicious fruity rosé, nicely chilled, is the quintessential island beverage.
5 – Spend the night and enjoy the calm once the crowds have gone
During peak summer, ferries can bring in up to 6,000 day-trippers—but if you stay overnight, you’ll have the island almost to yourself. Skinny dipping, anyone?
How to get there
Ferry service from La Tour Fondue at the tip of the Gien peninsula in Hyères and from Toulon.
When to go
Our favorite time to visit is end of May/ Early June, or end of September/October—l’été Indien—when the beaches have been deserted, the water is still warm from the hot summer days, and everyone is tanned and relaxed. That is the time for early morning hikes and sunset runs and unselfconscious naked dips at the secret cove.
Tip
Don’t miss the neighboring island of Port-Cros and arrive just in time for lunch at L’Anse, where you will have some of the best seafood this side of the Mediterranean.
