Costa Smeralda, Sardinia: Salt in Your Hair, Time on Your Side
The wind smells of sea salt, rosemary and myrtle. Somewhere nearby, a scooter hums down a winding coastal road. Sardinia isn’t a place you visit—it’s one you feel. Wild and sun-kissed, it invites you to slow down, shed expectations, and wander with intention.
Start your mornings with a dip in turquoise water—Cala Brandinchi, perhaps, or the dreamy cove of Cala Luna. Let your afternoons unravel slowly, with lunches that stretch for hours: pane carasau, creamy bottarga, chilled Vermentino and a shot of traditional Mirto. In Sardinia, no one rushes, and neither should you.
Travel Tip
The beaches on Sardinia’s east coast (like Cala Goloritzé or Cala Mariolu) are only accessible by boat or long hikes—worth every step, but go early to beat the crowds and catch the morning light.
Rent a tiny car and get lost on the way to agriturismos tucked into olive groves. Follow dusty signs to family-run vineyards, where glasses clink and no one minds that you’ve overstayed. You’re not a tourist here—you’re a guest of the land.
And in the golden hour, when the sky blushes and the air turns syrupy, you’ll understand Sardinia’s real magic: not in its beaches (though they are glorious), but in how it holds time. Lightly. Kindly. Like a friend who’s always happy to see you linger.
Where to stay
Stay in an 8000-hectare Natural Park recognized by UNESCO as Biosphere Reserve at Essenza Sardegna. The property features beautifully designed “pinnettas”, traditional Sardinian huts made of stone and wood, each thoughtfully restored and decorated with natural materials and local craftsmanship. Surrounded by fragrant Mediterranean scrub and rolling hills, the atmosphere is serene and deeply connected to nature. Guests can enjoy cozy, rustic elegance, personalized service, and a sense of privacy, making it the perfect retreat for those seeking an intimate and genuine Sardinian experience.
Perched gracefully over the bay like a timeless Mediterranean village, Hotel Cala di Volpe exudes glamorous sophistication, surrounded by the vibrant colors and fragrances of sea and nature. Originally designed in the 1960s by Jacques Couëlle, this architectural masterpiece has been beautifully reimagined with refreshed rooms and suites, new spaces, and exceptional restaurants—elevating the experience to new heights.
Where to eat and drink
Belvedere Restaurant (local lavorite)
Run by two friendly brothers, this charming, low-key spot serves up daily catch and regional dishes with warm, family-style hospitality. It’s popular with locals and a hidden gem for fresh seafood lovers.
A cozy, vintage-style eatery just outside the main center of Porto Cervo. Simple, comforting dishes and excellent service.
La Taverna Palau (worth the drive)
About 30 minutes from Porto Cervo, this is a must for seafood fans. A favorite of the writers, it’s known for grilled lobster, heavenly antipasti, and warm, local vibes. Call ahead for hours.
La Kustera (for the true local experience)
Set in a rustic countryside home near Arzachena, this family-run spot doesn’t have a set menu—just a parade of Sardinian specialties served in generous portions. A local, authentic experience at a fantastic value.
Frades (for modern Sardinian cuisine)
Elegant and extremely contemporary in style, the restaurant serves modern Sardinian cuisine, while a corner reminiscent of their delicatessen allows guests to taste the island’s hams and cheeses by the slice
La Place - Art & Wine (for wine and vibes)
Overlooking the main piazza of San Pantaleo, this stylish wine bar offers a curated list of Sardinian wines, beers, and light bites in a charming setting.
Pedrinelli (see and be seen)
For a taste of Porto Cervo’s glam nightlife, dine at celebrity hotspot Pedrinelli.
Ristorante Il Rifugio Nuoro (authentically hearty)
Traditional Sardinian cuisine deeply rooted in the island’s pastoral and maritime culture. It’s rustic, hearty, and shaped by centuries of isolation, which helped preserve ancient culinary practice
Phi Beach (sunset must-see)
Set into the rocks with an unbeatable sunset view, Phi Beach is a stylish beach club perfect for early evening cocktails and people-watching.
Riva Lounge (cocktails & yacht watching in Porto Cervo)
Get the Dolcevita cocktail, you’ll thank us later
Zamira Lounge (cocktails & unwind in Porto Cervo)
Have your coffee in the morning and come for aperitivo at sunset
a few more notable mentions:
ZUMA Porto Cervo, La Scogliera on La Maddalena, Liska La Maddalena
Where to swim
1 – La Pelosa
Located in the charming village of Stintino, La Pelosa is renowned for its powdery white sand and shimmering turquoise waters. It’s an ideal spot to soak up the sun while little ones play safely in the shallow, calm sea.
2 – Cala Goloritzé
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Cala Goloritzé is one of the most breathtaking natural gems on the Italian coast. You can arrive by boat, or for the adventurous, take the challenging hike down to the cove. Either way, you’ll be rewarded with a serene hideaway, limestone cliffs, and crystal-clear waters teeming with fish.
3 – Grotta di Nettuno
Near the scenic town of Alghero, Neptune’s Cave is a must-see on any Sardinian holiday. You can reach this dramatic sea cave by boat or by descending a winding staircase carved into the cliffs, where you’ll find an otherworldly display of stalactites and stalagmites.
What to do
1 – Cruise the Maddalena Archipelago by Yacht
In northern Sardinia, the Maddalena archipelago dazzles with over 60 islands, each more stunning than the last. Set sail on a private yacht and discover the magic of this protected nature reserve. Swim in crystal-clear waters, soak up the sun, and marvel at the dramatic coastal scenery from the comfort of your boat.
2 – Jeep Adventure Along the Costa Smeralda
Famous for its pristine beaches and exclusive vibe, the Costa Smeralda—Sardinia’s Emerald Coast—is best explored on the open road. Jump into a vintage Jeep and wind your way along scenic routes, uncovering hidden gems and panoramic views that make this coastline unforgettable.
3 – Kayak Through Sardinia’s Natural Wonders
From azure waters to secluded coves and rugged cliffs, Sardinia’s landscapes are meant to be explored. Paddle out in a kayak with an expert guide and glide through calm natural pools surrounded by lush greenery, experiencing the island from a fresh, peaceful perspective.
4 – Archaeology and Wine Tasting Experience
Immerse yourself in Sardinia’s rich history and culture with a guided tour of ancient archaeological sites followed by a wine tasting at a local vineyard. Discover fascinating landmarks steeped in history before savoring the distinctive flavors of regional wines in an authentic setting.
5 – Feel the Rush on a Jet Ski
For thrill-seekers, Sardinia’s coast is the perfect playground. Speed across the waves on a jet ski, feel the wind in your hair, and take in the spectacular views of the island’s shoreline between bursts of adrenaline.
Feeling adventurous?
Take a hike! The Selvaggio Blu—“Wild Blue”—isn’t just a hike, it’s a real adventure. Often called Italy’s toughest and most beautiful coastal trek, it stretches for over 50 kilometers along Sardinia’s dramatic Gulf of Orosei. You’ll hike ancient shepherd paths, scramble over rocks, do a bit of light climbing, and rappel down cliffs, all with the sparkling sea as your backdrop. Along the way, you’ll discover hidden beaches like Cala Goloritzé and Cala Mariolu, towering limestone cliffs, and views that genuinely take your breath away. At night, you’ll sleep under the stars or in rustic ovili (traditional shepherd huts), sharing stories over hearty Sardinian meals.
How to get there
It’s a short flight from Rome, Milan, Naples, or other Italian hubs straight into Olbia or Alghero Airport—the ideal gateway to Sardinia’s glamorous northeast and the sparkling Costa Smeralda. Prefer to take it slow? Ferries also connect the mainland to Sardinia, letting you arrive by sea to this iconic stretch of coastline.
When to go
Hard to believe, but May is still considered shoulder season in Sardinia—beach clubs are not yet open, and the island is slowly waking up. If you want to stay one step ahead of the summer crowds, aim for late May into early June. Or catch that golden calm again in late September, when the island exhales.
Tip
Most beaches here need to be booked in advance, with an entrance fee to secure your spot. Sadly, spontaneity doesn’t really fly on these shores—plan your itinerary ahead of time and lock in your beach reservations at least two weeks before you go.
